Everyone visits Prague. Almost everyone skips the region two hours south of it. After a summer road trip through South Bohemia, I can’t understand why.
Johannes and I spent five days driving between castle towns. We fed deer on castle grounds and floated past a UNESCO old town on a wooden raft. Then we drank some of the best beer of our lives in the city where Budweiser was born. This South Bohemia itinerary covers our exact route — six towns, four hotels, every café and restaurant we loved.
If you want a European road trip that still feels like a discovery, this is it. The towns are walkable and the castles look like movie sets. The food is excellent, and prices stay reasonable compared to Western Europe. Below you’ll find where to stay, what to do day by day, where to eat, and the tips I wish I’d had.
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Why South Bohemia Is Worth It
South Bohemia sits in the southern Czech Republic, between Prague and the Austrian border. The region is packed with things most travelers never see. Think water castles, medieval squares, fish ponds, and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. There’s even a chateau modeled on Windsor.
Český Krumlov gets day-trippers from Prague. The rest of the region, though, stays wonderfully quiet. Even in summer, we often had castle grounds and old-town streets to ourselves.
What surprised us most was how easy it all is. The towns sit 20 to 40 minutes apart by car. Everything in the historic centers is walkable, and English menus are common. So you can be spontaneous here — wander, find a café, climb a tower — without much planning. If you’ve done any of our other European road trips [Internal link: “Related Europe road trip post”], the rhythm will feel familiar, just quieter.
One more thing. České Budějovice, the regional capital, was just named European Capital of Culture for 2028. My guess is this area won’t stay under the radar much longer.
How to Get to South Bohemia (and Why You Want a Car)
South Bohemia is easy to reach from three gateways. Prague is closest, at roughly 2 hours to České Budějovice. Vienna takes about 2.5 hours, and Munich about 3.5. Prague is the shortest route. Next time we’d fly there first and add a few city days before heading south.
We flew into Munich instead, because it’s our only direct connection from San Diego. Then we picked up a rental car and drove across. The border crossing is completely seamless. One minute you’re in Germany, the next you’re in Czechia.
You’ll want a car for this itinerary. Trains and buses do connect the bigger towns. But the castles, the Schwarzenberg Tomb, and the small stops in between really need your own wheels.
🌿 Tip: Book a compact car. Years ago in Portugal we got “upgraded” to a big BMW wagon. It barely fit through the old-town corners, and we ended up doing three-point turns in medieval alleys. South Bohemia’s streets feel just as tight, and the parking spots are small.
The 5-Day South Bohemia Itinerary at a Glance
Here’s the route we drove, moving roughly north to south. No transfer takes longer than about 40 minutes.
| Day | Route | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Blatná → Zvíkov Castle → Tábor | Boutique Hotel Nautilus, Tábor |
| 2 | Tábor → Třeboň → České Budějovice | Grandhotel Zvon, České Budějovice |
| 3 | České Budějovice → Hluboká Castle → Český Krumlov | Hotel OLDINN, Český Krumlov |
| 4 | Full day in Český Krumlov | Hotel OLDINN, Český Krumlov |
| 5 | Český Krumlov → Lipno nad Vltavou | MOLO Lipno Resort |
Where to Stay in South Bohemia
Like most of the boutique hotels we book in Europe, these were picked for location first. This South Bohemia itinerary changes hotels almost every night. That sounds exhausting, but it isn’t. The drives are short, and each stay drops you into a different town’s historic center.
We stayed in four properties across five nights. Every one sat on the main square, or steps from it. So we could park the car and forget about it.
Boutique Hotel Nautilus, Tábor. A 22-room boutique hotel on Žižkovo Square. Each room mixes art, antiques, and actual fossils. Ours looked out over the plaza, and the hotel restaurant, Goldie, is one of the best in the region.
Grandhotel Zvon, České Budějovice. The oldest hotel in the Czech Republic, welcoming guests since 1533. It sits right on the main square. The restaurant cooks traditional Czech dishes with produce from the hotel’s own organic farm.
Hotel OLDINN, Český Krumlov. Three restored historic houses on Krumlov’s central square. The rooms are clean and modern, and the location can’t be beaten. We stayed two nights, and I’d recommend you do the same.
MOLO Lipno Resort, Lipno nad Vltavou. Design apartments right on Lake Lipno. The longest pier in Central Europe stretches out over the water, and a fine-dining restaurant sits at the end of it.
Day 1: Blatná, Zvíkov and Arriving in Tábor
A beer bath in Blatná
Our first stop after crossing into Czechia was Blatná. It’s a small town built around one of only three preserved water castles in the country.
We started at Lázně Blatná, a family-run spot near the castle. It combines a private wellness spa, boutique rooms, and a café with homemade desserts. The spa is a small, candle-lit space in the restored cellar. Inside there’s a Finnish sauna, a phytosauna, and two wooden tubs.
We soaked in a warm beer bath made with beer extract, brewer’s yeast, and herbs. You get the whole place to yourselves. And yes, drinking a cold beer while you sit in one is encouraged. Afterwards we had coffee and pastries on the patio. One of their rooms is even built like a cave.
The castle and its very bold deer
Then it was on to Blatná Castle itself, a fairytale water castle rising straight out of its moat. The Hildprandt family has owned it since 1798. The state seized it under communism in the 1950s, and the family moved to Ethiopia through a personal connection to Emperor Haile Selassie. They got the castle back after 1991. You’ll spot Ethiopian pieces in the exhibition today, and the interiors are famously decorated with thousands of deer antlers.
The real magic, though, is the 42-hectare English park. Fallow deer roam completely free across the grounds. Bring food and they will find you, because these deer know exactly who’s holding snacks. It takes them a minute to warm up. But once they decide you’re worth their time, a few will happily follow you around. They’re remarkably gentle about it. When we visited in summer, their antlers were still growing in, covered in soft velvet.
The alpacas are the comic relief. They’re funnier, much less polite, and they come straight at your food with zero hesitation. Still, they’re friendly, and you can pet them. We finished with a coffee on the castle café’s patio before hitting the road.
Zvíkov, the “King of Czech Castles”
About 30 minutes from Blatná, Zvíkov Castle sits on a rocky headland. Below it, the Vltava and Otava rivers meet. The castle dates to the 13th century, and people call it the “King of Czech Castles.” Even from the outside, you can see why. We rolled up on a Monday, made a quick stop, and walked the grounds.
🌿 Tip: Zvíkov’s interiors close on Mondays, even in peak summer. We learned this the hands-on way. The courtyards stay open year-round, so a Monday visit still works. But plan another day if you want the Royal Palace tour.
Evening in Tábor
Another 35 minutes brought us to Tábor. It’s a medieval hilltop town, founded in 1420 as the stronghold of the Hussite movement. We checked in at Hotel Nautilus, dropped our luggage, and parked the car. Then we just wandered — cobblestone streets, crooked lanes, beautiful old buildings. It’s exactly how you picture a Czech old town.
Dinner was at Goldie, the restaurant inside the hotel. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our whole trip. Chef Martin Košťál cooks modern Czech food built on regional ingredients. The plating is beautiful, but the flavors stay recognizably Czech rather than fussy.
Worth knowing: Goldie just earned a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide Czech Republic 2026. That’s one of only 18 in the entire country, and the first time it’s been listed. So if you’re having one elevated dinner in South Bohemia, make it this one. Book ahead.
Day 2: Tábor Old Town, Třeboň and České Budějovice
Morning wandering in Tábor
After a good breakfast at the Nautilus, we spent the morning exploring Tábor with no plan at all. Honestly, that’s the best way to do it. The old town center is small enough that you can’t get lost. Wander Pražská street and the lanes around the square, then duck into whatever looks good. There are more cafés tucked into these streets than a town this size has any right to.
Třeboň and the Schwarzenberg Tomb
Forty minutes south, our first stop was the Schwarzenberg Tomb. It’s a neo-Gothic mausoleum from the 1870s, set in a quiet English park beside the Svět fishpond. Twenty-six members of the Schwarzenberg family rest inside. This is the noble dynasty whose castles you’ll keep running into all over the region. Guided tours take you into the chapel and the crypt. It’s a beautiful, peaceful place.
🌿 Tip: Parking at the tomb is tiny — just a few free spaces at the park entrance. Go early to snag one, and you might even photograph the tomb with nobody in it. Otherwise use the public lot below the Svět pond dam and walk through the park.
Then we drove into Třeboň itself, a Renaissance spa town. It gets busier, but it’s a joy to walk: cobblestone streets, colorful facades, cafés everywhere. Walk through the castle park at Třeboň Castle. And don’t miss the old castle pharmacy, which is now a café. We had less time here than we’d have liked, because Třeboň could easily fill half a day.
Arriving in České Budějovice
Thirty minutes later we reached České Budějovice, the capital of South Bohemia. It’s a proper city that somehow kept all its old-town charm. We checked in at Grandhotel Zvon on Přemysl Otakar II Square. That square is one of the largest in Europe, ringed by 48 arcaded Baroque and Renaissance buildings.
Arriving at the hotel came with a surprise. To reach the garage, you literally drive your car into an elevator. Stop briefly out front and see reception first — they’ll walk you through it.
[IMAGE: The car sitting inside the Grandhotel Zvon’s vehicle elevator. Alt text: “Grandhotel Zvon car elevator Ceske Budejovice South Bohemia taliasbucketlist”. Caption: “Yes, you drive your car into an elevator. Easily the strangest hotel check-in we’ve had.”]
Once we’d refreshed, we climbed the Black Tower. It’s 225 steps up a 16th-century watchtower, just over 70 meters tall. The view from the top is the best in the city. Afterwards we wandered the streets and the riverfront. Don’t miss Panská street.
Where to drink Budvar in České Budějovice
Now, the beer. České Budějovice has been brewing since 1265, when King Ottokar II granted the city brewing rights. Its beer is so distinctive that it carries EU protected status. This is the home of Budějovický Budvar, the original Budweiser. Czechia is also where pilsner was invented, in Plzeň in 1842. And Czechs drink more beer per person than anyone else on Earth. They’ve earned the confidence.
We settled in for a snack and a Czech lager at Solnice. It’s a brewery restaurant inside a Gothic building from 1531. The building started as the city granary, then became the salt store that gave it its name. The outdoor area next to the Dominican monastery is lovely.
For a second round, Masné Krámy is one of the country’s most iconic beer halls. It was the city’s medieval meat market, first mentioned in 1336. Today it’s the flagship restaurant pouring Budvar.
We ended the night at Žlutá Ponorka, a poetic little cocktail bar. It’s one of the most popular in the city — creative drinks, relaxed atmosphere, and really good food. If you’re a cocktail person, don’t skip it.
Day 3: České Budějovice, Hluboká Castle and Into Krumlov
One more morning in Budějovice
The city is very walkable, and everything is closer than you think. So we did one more slow loop before leaving. If you like street art, the Art in the City project maps sculptures and murals across town. The site is Czech-only, but the art speaks for itself.
Hluboká: the Windsor of Bohemia
Twenty minutes north sits Hluboká Castle. I’ll just say it: this is the most stunning castle we saw on the whole trip, inside and out. The Schwarzenberg family rebuilt it in romantic Neo-Gothic style between 1840 and 1871. Their model was Windsor Castle, which Prince Jan Adolf II and Princess Eleonora had seen at Queen Victoria’s coronation in 1838.
The result is a white fairytale of a chateau with 140 rooms and 11 towers. It’s now one of the most visited castles in the country, right up there with the best castles we’ve seen in Europe [Internal link: “Related castle or old-town destination guide”].
There’s no parking at the castle itself. We parked at the main lot in town. From there it’s either a small tourist tram up the hill or a 10–15 minute walk. The exterior alone is worth the trip. But don’t miss a tour of the interiors — richly carved wood paneling, paintings by European masters, and Delft porcelain, all beautifully preserved. We also climbed the tower for views over the countryside. The gardens and grounds are free, so walk those too. This castle needs to be on your list.
The drive to Krumlov, and a UNESCO village on the way
On the 40-minute drive from Hluboká to Český Krumlov, you’ll pass close to Holašovice. It’s a tiny UNESCO World Heritage village of 18th- and 19th-century farmhouses, arranged around a central green. The style has a name: South Bohemian folk Baroque. It’s only a small detour. We noted it for next time but didn’t stop, because we wanted to reach Krumlov before evening. If your day has room, it’s an easy add.
Arriving in Český Krumlov
A fair warning about arriving in Český Krumlov — say it with me: CHESS-kee KROOM-lov. There’s no parking inside the old town, and the streets are centuries-old cobblestone. We parked at the P1 lot and dragged our luggage over the cobbles and up the hill to Hotel OLDINN. Only later did we learn that the hotel offers a pickup service. Taxis can also get you close. So learn from us and call the hotel first.
The town itself is a stunner. It genuinely feels like a movie set — cobblestone lanes, historic buildings, something to discover behind every corner. And the castle tower looms over all of it. We had dinner at Krumlovský Mlýn, classic Czech cuisine right on the river. The perfect spot to end the day.
🌿 Tip: Stay two nights in Český Krumlov. Day-trippers flood in from Prague around midday and vanish by evening. Staying overnight means you get the town at its best, early morning and after dark.
Day 4: A Full Day in Český Krumlov
We had a full day in Krumlov, and we needed every hour of it.
Morning: coffee and cobblestones
Breakfast at the OLDINN, then we just walked. That’s the best way to see this town. There’s a lot here, so take your time. Cafés line nearly every lane and the riverbank. The best move is simply to wander until one calls to you.
The brewery tour at Port 1560
Mid-morning we toured the historic brewery at Port 1560. It’s the town’s former manor brewery, reopened in 2024 after a beautiful renovation. You walk through the original brewhouse and the modern microbrewery, then taste the beer. Along the way you pick up a surprising amount of the town’s history. Interesting, delicious, and very Krumlov.
Afternoon: the castle and the tower
Český Krumlov Castle is the must-see. After Prague’s, it’s the second-largest castle complex in the country. The nice thing about Krumlov is that you never need a map. The castle tower is visible from nearly everywhere, so you always have a fixed navigation point.
Climb it for the classic panoramic view over the red rooftops and the looping Vltava. The spiral staircase is narrow, but not too bad. After a few days of Czech old towns, walking everywhere just becomes natural. Then take your time in the castle courtyards and gardens, which are free. For more angles on the town, the tourism site lists Krumlov’s best lookout points.
After hours of walking, we stopped for a snack at a café along the river and just enjoyed the town.
Evening: the wooden raft cruise
At golden hour we boarded a wooden raft cruise along the Vltava meander. It’s a 50-minute float through the historic center. The raft is a replica of the timber ones that carried goods down this river for centuries.
It was so much fun. You drift right past the castle and stop along the way to grab a drink. Meanwhile the guides keep you laughing, and dry. Of everything we did in Krumlov, this is the one I’d tell you not to skip.
Dinner was at Papas Living Restaurant, another riverside spot. Honestly, everything we ate and drank on this trip was good. We ended with a walk and one more drink by the river, with a view of the lit-up castle.
Day 5: Lipno nad Vltavou
One last morning in Krumlov
We spent one last slow morning in Krumlov. A final coffee, one more loop through town, honestly not wanting to leave. This time we used the hotel’s transport to get back to the car.
Then it was a 35-minute drive south to Lipno nad Vltavou. It’s a small lakeside town on Lake Lipno, and it feels like the place Czechs themselves go on vacation. The ski resort here runs activities summer and winter.
The Lipno Treetop Walkway
The big attraction is the Lipno Treetop Walkway. A 675-meter wooden path climbs gently through the forest canopy. At the top, a 40-meter tower gives you views over the lake and the Šumava forests. On clear days you can see all the way to the Alps.
We’ve done treetop walks around the world, and this one is a good one. It was also the first ever built in Czechia. There are rope-net “adrenaline stops” 24 meters up, plus a 52-meter dry slide spiraling down inside the tower.
Take the Lipno Express chairlift up. It’s about 20 minutes, and part of the fun. For the way down, though, rent the downhill scooters at the top station. The ride is surprisingly long and an absolute blast. Our favorite fifteen minutes of the day.
🌿 Tip: Pick up the Lipno Card at the Tourist Information Centre before heading up. It covers the Treetop Walkway and the chairlift, so you’re not juggling separate tickets.
Sunset and dinner on the pier
We spent the late afternoon relaxing by the lake. Then we walked out over the water on MOLO’s pier for sunset. At 150 meters, it’s the longest pier in Central Europe, and it’s open around the clock.
Dinner was at MOLO Restaurant, the fine-dining spot at the end of the pier. Chef Petr Vaněk runs the kitchen, and it was the best meal of our trip.
Two dishes stood out. The kulajda is a classic South Bohemian soup with egg, mushrooms and dill, and it was absolutely delicious. That’s exactly the kind of traditional dish I love seeing done properly in a fine-dining kitchen.
Then there was the Catfish & Snail. Here’s my confession: we completely overlooked the snail part when we ordered. We forgot about it entirely and spent the whole dish assuming those were mushrooms. They were fantastic. It comes with snail caviar too, which we also ate happily without knowing what it was. We only asked afterward. So if you’re squeamish about snails, my honest advice is what worked for us. Don’t think about it, because it tasted incredible. I’d order it again any time.
The Best Things to Do in South Bohemia (Our Shortlist)
If you’re skimming, these are the things to do in South Bohemia that we’d tell a friend not to miss:
- Feed the deer at Blatná Castle — free-roaming, gentle, and they’ll follow you once they trust you
- Take a beer bath at Lázně Blatná — wooden tubs, sauna, and total privacy in a candle-lit cellar
- Tour Hluboká Castle — the Windsor-inspired interior is the best we saw in Czechia
- Climb the Black Tower in České Budějovice — 225 steps to the best view in the city
- Drink Budvar where it’s brewed — Solnice and Masné Krámy
- Spend two nights in Český Krumlov — castle, tower, and the town after the crowds leave
- Float the Vltava on a wooden raft — 50 minutes, drinks included, pure fun
- Ride a scooter down from the Lipno Treetop Walkway — the most fun descent of the trip
- Order the kulajda and the Catfish & Snail at MOLO — our best meal, snails and all
How Many Days Do You Need in South Bohemia?
Five days is the sweet spot, and that’s what this South Bohemia itinerary covers. It gives you two nights in Český Krumlov and one night in each of the other towns.
Got three days? Skip Blatná and Lipno. Drive straight to České Budějovice, then Hluboká, then Krumlov.
Got a week? Add Holašovice, give Třeboň a proper half day, and spend a second night at Lipno.
Practical Tips for a South Bohemia Road Trip
A few things we’d tell anyone planning a South Bohemia itinerary of their own.
Park outside the historic centers. Most old towns don’t allow cars in the center, and Český Krumlov especially. Look for the numbered lots at the edge of town. Then ask your hotel about luggage transfer, before you drag suitcases over cobblestones.
Watch for Monday closures. Many castle interiors close on Mondays even in summer, Zvíkov included. Grounds and courtyards usually stay open. So a Monday can still be a castle day, just not a castle-tour day.
Prices are reasonable. Hotels, meals, and beer here are a good value compared to Western Europe, or to San Diego. This trip delivers a lot of luxury per dollar.
Go in summer for the full experience. Castle interiors, raft cruises, and the Treetop Walkway all run their full schedules. The deer at Blatná still have their velvet antlers. And evenings on the squares are perfect.
Final Thoughts
We loved this trip. South Bohemia is a stunning, underrated corner of Europe, and five days barely scratches it. The landscapes are beautiful, the towns look like storybooks, and the castles come with real history. Best of all, the food and beer over-deliver at every price point.
We could easily have stayed longer, and this won’t be our last trip to Czechia. Next time we’d fly into Prague, spend a few days there first, then drive south and do it all again. With a stop in Holašovice, finally.
If this South Bohemia itinerary is going on your list, save this post for your planning. And if you’ve already been, tell me what we should add for round two.
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